Making sure you choose the best wood glue is essential. Using the wrong adhesive is pointless, you might as well not use any at all. Below are a few common areas that come up during carpentry work where you will need glue and which type I use for the job.
Gorilla Glue is a ridiculously strong glue and it sticks to foam, metal, glass, ceramics, stone, wood - almost anything!. It's 100% waterproof, so is good for indoor or outdoor use. It can also be sanded, stained and painted. I don't just use it for loads of carpentry jobs but generally around the house too.
For general carpentry work Evostik wood glue is generally the best. I use it for skirting and architrave mitres, MDF, sticking mouldings to timber, beadings etc. Waterproof PVA glue is also available for external carpentry jobs like decking balustrades and fascia mitres too.
For really strong joints during finish carpentry work when gluing mitres on things like skirting boards, architrave mitres, kitchen cornices, crown moulding etc. then the best wood glue you can use is Everbuild Mitre Glue.
This glue has two parts, the first you spread on one mitre and then the activator sprays onto the second mitre to be stuck to. Once the activator has dried you hold the two together firmly for 10 seconds and the mitre is solid! If you want a cheaper glue then use the PVA wood adhesive above. It won't grab the two pieces together like a contact adhesive but grips well when it goes off after half an hour or so. This two part glue allows you to join the two pieces together before then fixing them to the wall or other aperture.
When gluing timber to walls like when fixing skirting, shelf battens and that sort of thing I use a grab adhesive like gripfill or no more nails. Gripfill can also be used for small gap filling jobs, and I know chippies who's plaster boarding isn't that great and they use it for their gaps and to stick boards together so there's little chance of joints moving after plastering. I always have a tube of 'grippa' in my tool bag as it's really useful for loads of jobs. It is a pretty thick glue, and you should warm the tube before using if temperatures are really low just to make it more pliable. Don't get it on your clothes or in your arm hairs..
When sticking MDF skirting boards to dry-lined walls I use Mega Grip/No more nails and pin them in place with my nailgun. The long nail gun pins hold the boards in place until the wood glue goes off, and you can also use it to fill along the top edge of the skirting like decorators caulk. It is a much thinner glue than Gripfill and easier to displace/spread behind skirting or other boards.
Ok, you don't 'glue' door/window frames in as such. But a great way to hold them in place while you fix them in difficult situations is to use Expanding Foam (500ml). This stuff can get you out of the sh*t! My old Victorian house was a nightmare to get a decent fixing for the front door frame because the old bricks were loose, crumbling and just shattered when you try and drill them. I used expanding foam to stick and hold the frame in place before it was plastered in on one side and rendered the other. It's great for filling all sorts of gaps, a recent customer of mine used it to plug holes in the fascia to stop mice getting into their loft!
There are different types of worktops. When I am installing hardwood counters like Beech I use Clear Silicone Sealant (unless the instructions that come with the tops say otherwise) in the joints after they've been sealed with plenty of coats of oil. When I am installing Formica worktops I use Evo Stik Contact Adhesive. You put a coat on each edge and when its touch dry put the two together and cramp them up, solid.
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